(click on photos to enlarge image)
SILVER TOILET SETS
The plate associated with the bedroom is known from
inventories to have existed at least from the 15th century, but
items such as shaving bowls and jugs do not survive in any
numbers until the 18th century.
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The most
prestigious plate associated with the bed chamber
continued to be the toilet service.
Although items of toilet plate where made for gentlemen,
such as shaving plate ‘oatmeal boxes and plates’ and
hand powder boxes, the full service was the perquisite
of the lady of the house and was as much a reflection of
her status as the display plate in the dining room was
of her husband’s.
The finest of them are therefore composed of a large
number of pieces, often with very elaborate decoration.
Most were presented on the occasion of marriage (note
1).
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silver toilet set comprising table mirror,
casket, boxes and brushes.
London 1699
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In 1690 John Evelyn wrote this poem titled 'Mundus
Muliebris: or the ladies dressing-room unlock'd and her toilette
spread':
A new Scene to us next presents,
The Dressing-Room and Implements,
Of Toilet Plate Gilt, and Emboss'd,
And several other things of Cost,
The Table Miroir, one Glue Pot,
One for Pomatum, and whatnot?
Of Washes Unguents and Cosmeticks,
A pair of Silver Candlesticks;
Snuffers and Snuff-dish, Boxes more,
For Powders, Patches, Water Store,
In silver Flasks, or Bottles, Cups
Cover'd or open to wash chaps.
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P. William Tomkins (London
1760-1840):
engraving from a painting of Charles Ansell
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(the Italian version of this poem © is available in the
"Italian" article - note 2)
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Pietro Longhi - Venice 1701-1785
The toilet of the Lady
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Even though this poem offers an
excellent inventory of the items belonging to a toilet service,
the list of the pieces is largely incomplete. The verses don't
cite, for example, the combs' boxes , the trays, the brushes,
the pin holder, the bell..... (note 3) .
In the 18th
century the pieces of the toilet service grew in number,
following the ever increasing complexity of lady's
cosmetic devices available on the market. The largest
known toilet service was made in 1708 by Benjamin Pyne
for the Duke of Norfolk, and consisted of 34 pieces.
A little smaller is the set of Dunham Massey, done for
the daughter of George Booth, second Earl of Warrington,
that includes 28 pieces (note 4)
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French silver toilet set, about 1820
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Until mid 19th
century the silver toilet set was reserved to noblemen
and to the highest rank in the society.
At the end of the 19th century the use of silver toilet
items spread to the middle class, adopting less
expensive shapes, largely appreciated by the new and
numerous female customers.
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Sterling Silver 'Love & Dream toilet set'
1904 Unger Brothers catalog
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The new fashion marked
the end of the use of pitchers, basins and lighting
devices (candlesticks, snuffers), while button hooks,
glove stretchers, shoe horns, hair curling irons and a
wide range of manicure tools were introduced.
The mirrors were reduced to the dimension of a small
oval shape with a short handle, while the heavy silver
boxes and vases were replaced by glass or crystal
containers with a light silver lid.
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'Floral Toilet Set: Narcissus'
Daniel Low & Co.- Salem - 1901 catalog
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But the silver toilet set 'season'
was at its finish, and, likely, the primary cause was the end of
its status as an 'elite' object, reserved to a social class
close to vanishing.
The spread of industrial production of cosmetics, the
introduction of new shapes of dresses and the change of female
habits and preferences quickly led, in the past century, to the
abandonment of the use of the silver toilet items.
These surviving collectibles are a precious witness of a
feminine world that, for most aspects, has now disappeared.
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Whiting Manufacturing Co.
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Daniel Low
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Unger Brothers
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silver toilet set: Italy first quarter of 20th
century
hair curling iron, glove stretcher, shoe horn, button
hook, mirror, brushes and crystal vases with silver lids
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Endnotes
(1) Timothy Schroeder: English Domestic Silver - Penguin
Books – 1988, p. 162
(2) Italian version by Renata Camozzi ©
(3) Charles Oman: English Domestic Silver - Adam & Charles Black
- London - 1968,
pp. 189/190
(4) Timothy Schroeder, pp. 165/166
a selection of silver toilet items
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Webster Company - North Attleboro:
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crystal vases with silver lids
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silver lids embossed with daisies
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Webster Company - North Attleboro:
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brush with silver cover
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silver flat brush made in Germany at the
beginning of 20th century
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German hallmarks and date (24.XII.1911)
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Noble's coronet and PS
monogram
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silver brush Birmingham (England) 1908:
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silversmith WJM & Co.
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detail of silver brush embossing
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hallmarks and butterfly
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button hook Birmingham 1912 - silversmith C & N
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button hook Birmingham 1912: silver handle
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button hook: silver hallmarks
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French glove stretcher - end of 19th century -
silversmith VB
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French glove stretcher: silver handles
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French glove stretcher
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silver shoe horn/button hook: Sheffield 1908 - silversmith
GWF
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silver shoe horn/button hook: Sheffield 1908
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Sheffield 1908 and silversmith
GWF hallmarks
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nail beautifier: Italy - 800/1000 silver
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nail beautifier - Italy
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silver nail buffer: Birmingham 1918 -
silversmith L & S
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silver nail buffer: Birmingham 1918
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Birmingham 1918 and
silversmith L & S hallmarks
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eye brow tool: Birmingham 1928 - silversmith LS
& Co
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silver eye brow tool
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Birmingham 1928 and
silversmith LS & Co hallmarks
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silver handled hair curling iron - silversmith
Mulholland Bros Inc.
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silver handled hair curling iron
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curling iron with MOP button
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hair curling iron
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silversmith hallmark
Mulholland Bros Inc. - Aurora, IL - 1915-1932
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travel burner for hair curling iron
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travel burner for hair curling
iron
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silver and mother of pearl folding pocket botton
hook
Sheffield 1897 - silversmith AS
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folding button hook
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mother of pearl with floral
decorations
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folding button hook
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closed button hook
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silver hallmarks: Sheffield 1897 - silversmith
AS
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Tiffany & Co silver talc
bottle
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Tiffany & Co. hallmark 1907-1947
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crystal perfume bottle with silver top
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silver top:
silversmith Vitali Bruno - Padua - Italy
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crystal perfume bottle with silver top
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crystal engraving and silver
top
(Italy - 2nd half 20th century)
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